The Coney Island Cafe

Coney Island Cafe / Hattiesburg, Mississippi ©Copyright 2023 David Robert Farmerie

Long before I conceived of the In Search of America Project I had read about a tiny restaurant in the middle of Mississippi, called the Coney Island Cafe. The story was as much about the owner, at the time, Billy Fokakis, as it was about the restaurant itself. Yet when one knows the story it becomes evident that the two were intertwined.

By the time I had visited the legendary restaurant Billy Fokakis had died just a few months earlier - at the age of 61. In fact, the restaurant had just recently reopened just 8 days before my arrival. His two children, Kayla and BJ decided to reopen in order to carry on the legacy that their father, and as far back as their great-great-grandfather had devoted their lives to.

All of the locals returned to the restaurant, day after day, as if nothing had changed - but something did change; Billy was no longer there - at least not physically. Day after day however stories and memories of Billy’s life were shared with one another, including with me; and it is with the greatest of affection that I share this story with you now.

The Coney Island Cafe first opened its doors in 1923 by Arthur Fokakis, who arrived from Greece in 1919. As the story goes - the one that has been passed down through generations; Arthur established a fruit stand that was a simple pushcart which he parked under a large shade tree by the railroad tracks on Main Street. Within a few years Aurthur leased the land under the large shade tree where he built a permanent structure that became his fruit stand. Ever ambitious, within another few years Arthur  turned the fruit stand into what is now known as the Coney Island Cafe - a short-order restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch. The menu was kept simple:  hamburgers, hot dogs, homemade curly fries, and traditional  breakfast fare, and of course their famous chili dog: homemade chili, and pickles. Of course one can still get a traditional dog… but why? 

As a sidenote; the Coney Island Cafe set a record in Mississippi for selling hot dogs longer than any other restaurant in the State - having first appeared on the menu in 1923.

When one enters from the sidewalk the restaurant stretches out with countertop dining on the left, booth seating on the right, and tables in the center. Almost immediately, just to the left beyond the counter, is the grill.

Interior of the Coney Island Cafe/ 7:26 a.m. ©Copyright 2023 David Robert Farmerie

The wood paneled wall that rises above the booths is covered in photographs and memorabilia of Hattiesburg, as well as the restaurant’s history.

Interior wall of the Coney Island Cafe ©Copyright 2023 David Robert Farmerie

 During my first day at the restaurant Kayla Fokakis told me the story of every piece that hung on the wall.

Kayla Fokakis telling me the stories of each piece on the wall. ©Copyright 2023 David Robert Farmerie